The Wheels of Change Keep Turning . . . a Winter Solstice Reflection

December 22, 2011 E-blast to family and friends.

A year ago, this time, I learned that I had been accepted for an international volunteer placement with CUSO/VSO in the Dornod province of Mongolia.  I was ecstatic!  After all, I innately knew that I was supposed to be in Mongolia.  Why?  Honestly, at the time, I did not know the specifics as to why.  What I did know was that I was beginning to trust my sense of self/knowing again . . . so accepted the position.  

As a result, in late January I traveled to Ottawa for an intensive training program with CUSO.  Immediately following the training, the other 30 plus North Americans actually went home for one to three months before departing for their volunteer placement.  As for me, I left for Mongolia directly from Ottawa. 

And now, it is a year later and I am preparing to leave Mongolia on January 30^th – less than five weeks from now.   Yes, the wheels of change are definitely turning.  They are spinning with such rapidity and yet (there are moments) it feels like time is standing still.

Today is December 22, 2011 – Winter Solstice (my most favorite day of the year) - a day, for which I try to take a moment or two to contemplate life and all its many wonders.  So after a board meeting at the APDC where, with a smile on my face, I observed the once tentative coordinator give an update on her recent meetings in Ulaanbaatar with not one but three different national Ministries regarding the creation of development center for children with disabilities in Dornod - I took the long way home. 

Overall, the streets were quiet.  Its cold outside so folks are settling in for the winter.   According to ancient Mongolian traditions, today is the first day of nine groups of nine days (81 in total) of winter - each day colder than the one before - hard to imagine since it is already -30 degrees (not including the wind chill).  And yet, as I walked, I was comfortable; perhaps because I have learned to dress for the occasion – two pairs of leggings, wool socks, lined boots, a long-sleeved undershirt, (back brace, of course), wool sweater, neck scarf, coat, 2^nd neck scarf (this time yak wool), hat, hood and mittens.  I walked on. 

A short distance from my apartment there was a large make-shift skating rink where the brave (youth of course) were skating with Mongolian traditional music playing in the background.  I was reminded of the beauty of simplicity and the strength of those who are able to create personal richness particularly when they have little material wealth. 

As I climbed the stairs to my apartment in the dark I thought about how I have become familiar/comfortable with my surroundings.  The cadence of a drunk’s walk, the rhythm of a pack of dogs searching for food, the delight of a child’s face (partially hidden behind her/his winter clothes) sliding across the icy road, the aye-inspiring richness of a Mongolian tenor’s voice, the depth of power in the Lamas’ prayers, the beauty of vastness of the eastern steppes and the endless stars in the clear night skies.  Yes, Mongolia, Choibalsan in particular has become my home for this time in space.  I am truly thankful for the opportunity to have come to Mongolia.

Earlier this week, I stopped at the local Yellow Sect Buddhist temple.  It was a very auspicious day.    Hundreds of people were at the temple praying and partaking in the activities.  It was definitely no ordinary day.  On a typical day, there are no more than 20 people in the temple at any given time; rotating through like cogs on a perpetual prayer wheel.   All in all, things are normally quiet; except for the occasional mobile phone and chanting of the Lamas.  But on this day, it was different. 

I was curious about all that was going on around me.   With “soft eyes” (partially opened/closed eyes), I observed a young Lam standing before the main alter; between two long rows of Lamas seated and chanting.  The young Lam had colorful ribbons (long scarfs) extended from his robe at the base of his neck.  People were encouraged to enter the space with this young Lam and to extend the ribbons from his body outwards so all that wanted to could touch one of the ribbons.  As I watch the ceremony, I found myself focusing on the red ribbon . . . the ribbon that was directly in front of where I was sitting.  Later, I learned the color “red” signifies “blessings of practice” (achievement, wisdom, virtue, fortune and dignity).  It was exactly what I needed to know.

Days leading up to that moment at the Temple I struggled with the realization that I was leaving Mongolia.  There was so much yet to be done.  There was still money to be raised and training to be provided.  Yes, I understood that a lot had been accomplished, particularly around the advocacy work but it was also clear that there would be many challenges ahead for the Association - particularly since 2012 will be an election year and politics are “politics” no matter where you are in the world. 

I was also struggling with the reality of going back to the States.  Don’t get me wrong; I really, really miss my family (particularly my granddaughters) and dear, dear friends.  Any yet, thoughts of self-doubt; what would I do when I got back; where would I work/live; how would I deal with the “norm” the “predictable” after working abroad, etc.  I was not sleeping.

And then, as I sat among the masses in Temple, I experienced a true sense of complete content – a feeling of peace surrounded me.   I understood that “being present” in that moment (and every moment) is what truly matters – an understanding of what it means to “be.”   And, that regardless of what did/did not happen, everything would be fine – it would what it was meant to be.   My whole body exhaled and I have been smiling ever since. :>)

That is not to say I have any of the answers . . . heck, I don’t even know most of the questions . . . and I am okay with that.  

So here I sit, writing what may be my last blog entry while in Mongolia and wouldn’t you know, when I sat down to write, Stephen Hawking’s, “History of Time and the Universe” came on the Discovery Channel (one of three English channels – the other two are BBC World News and Fashion TV. . .  admittedly I watch all three).  As I listened to Hawkings talk about the universe, I decided to look online to look for a quote from him and sure enough, there were several I liked – such as:

 "The boundary condition of the universe is that it has no boundary." The universe would be completely self-contained and not affected by anything outside itself.  It would neither be created nor destroyed. It would just BE.” 

“The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance; it is the illusion of knowledge.” 

And of course . . .

“. . . remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet . . . if you are lucky enough to find love, remember it is there and don't throw it away.” ― Stephen Hawking

Personally, I believe that that last statement is true for all forms of love – unconditional love - not just between partners but love between mothers and sons; sons and daughters, sisters and brothers . . . the list is expansive; without boundaries – like the universe.

So, what is next? 

Well, on February 6^th I will be returning to Connecticut.  My last day at the APDC in Dornod will be January 2oth.  From there I fly to Ulaanbaatar for “out processing” and then leave Mongolia on January 30^th – the day my VISA expires.  I opted for “cash in lieu” - an option to receive a flat amount of money for travel in lieu of CUSO/VSO making direct flight arrangements for a volunteer.  I choose to take the “cash in lieu” so that I could enjoy a bit of warmth and relaxation before heading home. 

I have not taking any vacation since I arrived in Mongolia and it has taken a toll on my body.  Which reminds me, I should warn you not be shocked when you see that I have gained some weight (thanks to Mongolia’s all carb and fatty meat diet); plus, I have (literally) lost at least 25% of my hair (I am told) due to the high mineral content in the water.  So don’t be shocked . . .  there are remedies for both conditions (LOL).

Anyway, before heading back to Connecticut, I am going to take a bit of a detour and revel in the blue skies and waters, sandy beaches and cool nights along the shores of Oahu.  The only costs I will have is accommodations (cannot beat that).  After a brief stay I will be back on the mainland.

To my family and friends in the States – I miss you and will see you soon; and to my new friends in Mongolia and those volunteers who have returned to their home countries – I will keep you in my heart and prayers always. 

Shin Jill (Happy New Years!) – Deb (aka Mom to my children)

The following are photos from the APDC's children's Shin Jill . . .

"The Ride"

It is hard to imagine that one month ago, this time, I was preparing to embark on a 21-day horse ride from Choibalsan to Ulaanbaatar (665km) as part of an advocacy, public relations and fundraising campaign for the Association of Parents with Disabled Children (APDC).  The 4-5 days leading up to the departure on the 19^th were riddled with challenges and obstacles.  So much so, I was questioning whether or not the ride was going to (should) happen.  We did not have a herder to guide our journey; nor did we have horses.  The Lama, identified by the local temple, was less than enthusiastic about the ride.  VSO, appropriately, was pondering the risk elements of the ride.  Plus, the website was not up and running the day prior to departure and some of the materials had not been translated into Mongolian. 

Sleep eluded me during those days.  An average night’s rest rarely exceeded 3 hours.  On the 19^th, around 4am, I sent what would be my last e-communication to family and friends until eight days later when we would arrive in Khentii (the halfway point) and I had access to an internet cafe. 

The launch.  In true Mongolian fashion, “the launch” began and ended late but was well attended and filled with hope.  Parents and children with disabilities attended; as did the local media.  There were several performances by area children and Lamas from the local temple prayed for us to have a safe and successful journey.  We left the aimag center on the 19^th around noon and stopped just outside the center to have lunch with APDC board members and to load the gear onto our horses.  At this point, we did not have an extra horse for equipment and supplies so everyone was responsible for their own gear. 

Travel that first day, lasted less than 22km (due to the late start).  We stayed overnight near Bulgan soum at an agricultural farm (part of the Dornod Technical school).   As we shared our story and purpose for the ride with the family managing the farm we learned that there may be opportunities for our older children with disabilities to work at the farm and to learn agricultural skills.  Even though I was emotionally and physically exhausted from the week leading up to the ride, my heart was filled with joy . . . . I knew we were doing the right thing for the right reasons. 

The second day of the ride was a bit more challenging.  The herder was on a mission.  His mission (unbeknown to me at the time) was to get to Ulaanbaatar as quickly as possible.  Forget the fact that we were not scheduled to be there until the 10^th of October or that we had planned to ride no more than 40kms a day.  As a result, on day two, we rode deep into the night and covered more than 80kms arriving at a ger in Khuloon Buir near midnight.  I was exhausted; unable to walk and unable to think.  What I needed was a good night’s sleep (which, was not to be; we left the next morning around 8am).

For the next few days, the routine was the same.  Rise early.  Get on the trail.  Eat lunch with a nomadic herder’s family (the fresh yogurt was always a delight).  Continue riding until early evening and then stay overnight at the closest ger.  Oftentimes, it was difficult to enjoy the ride due to the aggressive pace or because of the personality challenges experienced between team members.  Someone was always angry or complaining about another member of the team.  A challenge I had not anticipated but learned to ignore over time.    

Another obstacle that plagued me for the balance of the trip was the fact that I put my back out hauling equipment to the ger the evening of the third night.  If anything was going to stop me from continuing it would have been that injury.  Every night, I questioned whether or not I could continue.  Fortunately, each morning I was able to rise with a new sense of hope.

One of my greatest joys during the trip was visiting with the nomadic families; learning about their lives and sharing our purpose and “the story” of one of our children with a disability (see Stories at www.mnsilentwarriors.org).  Each day of the trip, we highlighted the story, interests and dreams of a child with a disability and her/his family.  Our purpose was to help others see these children as children and not as her/his disability.  In almost every case, those we spoke with either had a child or an immediate family member with a disability.  Their support and encouragement gave me the strength to continue our life changing journey.

The sixth night of our travels, only two days from Khentii and the halfway point, we stayed with a Shaman (in training).  The young woman had completed six of ten years of training.  Her training can best described as an apprenticeship.  She works year round with a recognized Shaman and learns about natural herbs and ceremonies.  She also participates in an annual regional gathering of healers.  It was wonderful to visit with such a strong, young woman.  Just after a beautiful sunset we helped her and a neighbor coral the sheep, separate the goats and gather the cows. 

It was a perfect ending to the day.

The last day before Khentii proved to be interesting in an unexpected way.  First, we came upon a sheep, tied up and hidden in the tall grass. No one was in sight.  We untied the sheep and the Lama draped the poor thing across his horse to take him to the next ger.  Had we left him tied up he would have been dead by morning.  Later that same day, a colt suddenly appeared out of nowhere and began following us.  No other horses, herders, etc., were anywhere to be found.  We left left the colt with the next nomadic family;  some 10-15kms away.  And, finally, we came upon a bird with a damaged wing.  This time I carried the bird inside my dell.  When we arrived at our final destination for the day we feed the bird with one of the syringes from our first aid kit.  The chance interaction with these beautiful creators and the kindness demonstrated by my team mates reminded me of what truly has value in life.  It was at this point, I became better able to accept imperfections.  Though, I must admit, I did not master it.

We arrived in Khentii on the 8^th day – two days earlier than planned.  One of the horses had injured his leg and another had an infection in his mouth.  Things were not looking good.  We ended up staying in Khentii for two nights.  During that time, the horses were able to get some respite; we were able to meet with the APDC coordinator and director of social welfare; and, we were able to take showers for the first time in eight days.  Unfortunately, the showers were ice cold.  You see, Khentii does not have a power plant; therefore, does not have hot water.   We also used the extra day to pick-up a few supplies (hats, gloves, URI and pain medications, etc).  By this time, three out of four of us had bouts of internal bleeding – nothing serious as long as we had antibiotics to counter the infections.   Our immunity systems were starting to waiver so everyone was also getting daily doses of EmergenC as well as multiple applications of sunscreen and lip balm to address severely chapped skin and split lips.

We departed Khentii on the 28^th  in a snow blizzard.  The cross winds and sleet were brutal; fortunately it only snowed that one day.  The next two days were bitterly cold but it was tolerable since it wasn’t snowing or sleeting.  There was also a beauty about the steppes that can only be appreciated when there is snow on the ground; a quiet, contemplative type of beauty.  These few days were among my favorite.

By the end of the 13^th day, everyone was getting a bit “testy.”  Bimba (the interpreter) and I were separated from the herder and Lama.  We ended up in a less than desirable area.  The terrain was not only rocky it was steep.  On several occasions we had to dismount the horses and walk them.   By the time we caught up with the herder I was not a happy person and it showed.  I learned later that the herder actually thought I was going to hit him (of course that was not to be the case).   Towards evening we found ourselves in a soum (town) so opted to stay at a hotel (hoping to take showers; unfortunately the one shower in the hotel was not working - ugh!)   The herder and Lama used the opportunity to “blow off a little steam” with a bottle (or two) of vodka and beer.  Needless to say, they were a bit hung over and grumpy the next day. 



In addition, the horses were showing a lot of fatigue.  The herder’s horse’s injury had improved but the other horses were beginning to have sores from the saddles and their hooves were getting worn down (at a time with the ground was becoming more and more rocking and difficult).  Again, we didn’t know if the horses were going to make it.

October 2^nd and 3^rd we stayed in Banguur soum.  It was just what everyone needed.  The local Lamas took us in under the wings.  They provided hotel rooms, dinner and interesting conversation.  They even found a place outside of town for the horses to graze and rest.  This time, the shower iwas hot; however, it was not ideal.  The regulator for the toilet was broken.  Consequently, when I turned the cold water on (along with the hot water)  for the shower the toilet would fill-up.   As a result, every minute or so, I would have to step outside the shower to flush the toilet to keep it from overflowing.  I am not convinced I got all the shampoo out of my hair during that process (smile).

By this time, it was clear that we were going to arrive at the Chinggis Khan monument just outside Ulaanbaatar ahead of schedule.  After all, we were traveling an average of 60+ kms per day.  The next two days were no exception.  We arrived at the monument on the 5^th and waited there until Saturday when others would join us for the final two days of the ride.  This was also the moment when members of the team began going their separate ways.  The Lama left for UB on the 4^th.  The interpreter departed on the 8^th and the herder headed to Nahlik with three of the horses to see if he could sell them (fortunately he was successful). 

As for me, I continued to ride Saturday and Sunday with six other VSO volunteers.

We departed the ger camp at the base of the monument on Saturday morning heading north.  We rode for 20+/- kms to a Dutch tourist camp in Terelj national park.  The terrain was completely different than anything I had experienced to that point.  There were birch and pine forest and an abundance of streams and rivers.  It was beautiful.  It was also nice to spend time with fellow volunteers….some of whom would be leaving Mongolia at the end of the month.

The last day of the ride was very surreal.  It was hard for me to fathom that I was near the end of a 21-day ride.  We had done it.  The horses had made it.  Though, at this point, I was no longer riding my horse.  I had switched over to one of the others but he too was struggling.  By the time we arrived at our destination in Gachuurt I was walking the horse.  The rocks were no longer bearable for him.  It broke my heart.   

At the end of the ride, I walked the two horses to a grassy field where I horbelled them for the last time.   For their sake, more than mine, I was glad that the ride was over and that they would no longer have to suffer.  (On a side note, I want to share that the horses were bought by a local, Mongolian owned, tourist company.  They will be allowed to fully recuperate until next spring.) 

To what end.

Monday, October 10^th after a shower and good night sleep, I joined APDC supporters for a rally outside the Parliament building.  More than 150 parents, children and supports were there.  The board members from Dornod were in tears when they saw me.  The media coverage was unheard of for such a small organization.  Plus, twenty of us were able to meet with members of Parliament (MPs) to present the issues facing children with disabilities and their families. 

Four primary issues were presented (see our website for details: www.mnsilentwarriors.org).  In addition, the coordinator and members of the Dornod branch board of directors and I were able to meet privately with each of the three MPs from Dornod to discuss the need for a rehabilitation,  education and day care center. 

By most standards, the campaign was a success. 

Now, that I am back to Choibalsan, I will focus on fund-raising for the center and supporting the province-wide survey to identify children with disabilities; as well as the type and severity of their disability.  In addition, until I leave in 4 ½ months, I will continue to work with board on their advocacy work, capacity building and resource development.  To donate to the center please go to our website: www.mnsilentwarriors.org or send a check/money order to: Friends of APDC, PO Box 472, Glastonbury, CT 06033-0472

I am truly blessed to have the opportunity to work with such a wonderful organization and dedicated parents and supporters. 

Much love - Deb (aka Mom)

The Cost - Benefits of Indepedence

Hello All –

Based on the number of comments I have received (even now, three weeks since my last blog entry) I feel compelled to clarify a July 10^th entry - the “new guy” in my life is Pity, THE CAT.  Sure, it was my intention to lead you along for a bit regarding my love life; and, while I would like to take credit for being a wonderfully creative writer; instead, I think what has happened is that  some of you (I won’t name names) have not quite mastered the art of scanning materials (smile).   All in all, it has kept me (and many of you) in stitches.  Thank you for the smiles! 

On to Naadam and a bit of Mongolian history.

Let me start by stating right up front that I am not a history buff.  In fact, until recent years I have been pretty ignorant about world affairs.   And yet, I cannot help but be touched by how recent history has impacted the lives of the three generations of Mongolians living today. 

Mongolia has a long and very rich history which is worth exploring but cannot be covered in a blog so I am going to fast forward to the last 90 years or so; and even then, I will only share snippets in order to give some context to life in Mongolia today.  For those of you interested in reading a thought-provoking perspective on Mongolia I would encourage you to read Genghis Khan and the Making of the Modern World by Jack Weatherford (even though he does not call the great ruler by his correct name Chinngis, Weatherford does present him in a more favorable light than other historical writings).

In 1921, ten years after the collapse of the Qing Dynasty, Mongolia claimed independence from China and aligned itself with Russia in hopes to guarantee its freedom from Chinese rule.  In 1928, Khoroloogin Choilbalsan (the person for whom the town I live in is named) rose to power and became “an instrument” for the Soviets and socialism in eastern Mongolia.  Over the next decade, Choibalsan helped destroy upwards of 70% of all Buddhist temples.  He also played a large part in the murder of more than 30,000 monks and shamans.  This was particularly significant since over one-third of the male population at that time were monks.

As a nation, Mongolia became heavily dependent on Russia for socio-economic development.  Health, education and social welfare was determined and provided by the Russian government.  Independent thought and actions were strongly repressed.  In many ways, this life-style worked well in the urban areas.  For example, Choibalsan, a military border town, flourished and was home to a large population of Russian soldiers and their families. 

In July 1991, everything changed.  

Mongolia claimed independence from Russia after a brief and peaceful revolution - keep in mind, this is right after the collapse of communism in Eastern Europe in 1990.     Russians, living in Mongolia, literally left the country in less than a one week period of time - taking with them only what they could carry.  Furnishings, food, and clothing – everything was left behind.  Trade, commerce, education, health services, social welfare, everything came to a screeching halt.  Mongolian’s living in urban and peri-urban areas did not have the skills or knowledge needed to survive.  The country went into a deep depression and is still recovering today.

Last week, while having dinner and looking at old photos with Badamgarav (the 68 year old woman I have become very close to) I had the opportunity to ask what it was like in 1991 when the Russians left.  Badamgarav literally stopped and paused for a few moments before she stated, “it was the saddest time in my life.  All my dear friends, co-workers, close families left within a few days and I never saw or spoke with them again.”  Badamgarav was a nurse at the time and her husband a doctor (I believe) so they were better off than others because they had much needed skill – that was not the case for most of the people.

Bimba, (the interpreter I am working with) was seven years old in 1991.  He vividly remembers how food and other basic essentials were extremely scarce; how he and his sisters were hungry all the time.  Rations of bread (1-2 loaves per week) were given by the government depending on the number of members in a household.   Bimba’s parents grew-up in a socialistic environment so never learned how to provide for their family.  Unlike his grandparents, they did not have herding or agricultural skills.  The same was true for most others living in peri-urban, urban areas.  In Choibalsan, the economy was driven by the demands of the Russian military.  When the Russians left infrastructures collapsed.

With all this said, there is still great hope; particularly for those in their 40s who are educated.  They were part of the revolution for freedom and independence.  They are also today’s entrepreneurs and leaders.   In addition, many are finding their way back to their traditional nomadic live-styles.  Others are reclaiming their warrior-like view of life and Buddhist / shaman ways.  They recognize there are many struggles but greet each day with a song and end most days with a shot of vodka.  Even now, this sense of possibilities can be heard outside my window as the locals sing traditional songs while celebrating their 20 years of independence and 80 years as a province of Mongolia. 

Yesterday, a new Independence Square was dedicated in the center of town.   Naadam officially began today with the honoring of fallen soldiers and a parade to the wrestling arena.  Hundreds of Mongolians were dressed in traditional ethnic regalia.  

There was much traditional dancing, music, singing, wresting and archery and of course traditional food (in many ways the atmosphere is not unlike Pow Wows back home).  Horse races were held further out in the country-side. 

To my Mongolian friends - Happy Naadam!   

To Easterlina, my fellow CUSO/VSO volunteer – safe travels home to Kenya - I will miss you and look forward to when we meet again.

Namaste!   

I've been bit by the "Love Bug!"

It is true.  I met this really great guy when I got back to Choibalsan (Choi) from my travels to Ulaanbaatar (UB).   I had heard about him (even before I got here) but really wasn’t interested in meeting anyone (if you know what I mean).  I wanted to focus on work, getting to know the culture, etc.  But, the other volunteers were pretty persistent from the get go that we would be a good match; including a PeaceCorps volunteer who seemed to know him particularly well (which is another reason I wasn’t too keen on hooking up with the guy).  Ultimately, I gave into the pressure and (I must admit) they were right.  We really are a good match . . . he makes me laugh, loves to spend time together and is a great snuggler.  He even has white hair like me - men age quickly here so you would never know he is quite a bit younger than I am. 

So, hang on to her hats ‘cause what I am about to tell you is going to really shock some of you . . . he moved in with me almost immediately after we met.  I know; I know it is crazy but life is short – right?  Actually, the real reason he moved in is because he lost his apartment and needed a place to stay.  It was only supposed to be for a short time; but, now that he is here it seems to be working out. 

Oh, did I mention he is a cat named Pity?  No, I didn’t tell you that?  Sorry.

So, why the name Pity?  Well, Marg – the VSO volunteer who found him named him.  He was less than two months old at the time, immobile and partially frozen (average temperature in January is somwhere between 30 to 40 degrees below zero).  Plus, there’s a good chance he may have been tossed from one of the balconies near where he was found.  Marg, an early childhood and disability specialist by trade, was able to nurse the little guy back to health; unfortunately he permanently lost mobility in his hind quarters. 

In February, Marg completed her placement and returned to Australia and Pity moved in with Susanne a PeaceCorps volunteer from Idaho.  Susanne went home the week I was in UB; hence why I now have a roommate.   A group of new PeaceCorps volunteers will be arriving in August so I will be looking for an appropriate roommate for Pity when I leave in March 2012.   

At this point, Pity seems to be doing fine.  He is a bit small for his age; has buggy eyes and when he tries to run on flooring he looks like a car fish-tailing one way and then another.  Health wise, it is a bit uncertain (every once in a while he gets a clot at the base of his spine) but for now he is happy and out of the elements.  If he was left on his own outside he would not last through the night.  A disabled cat in a world of pack dogs wouldn’t have a chance. 
In addition to Pity, there have been a few other “happenings” in Choi. 

For example, I started working with Byamba, a new interpreter last week.   His interpreting and translating skill-levels are not as high as the prior interpreter so I will need to ratchet down some of my expectations.  However, the coordinator and board members respond really well to him which is critical - particularly since I only have 8 months left.  Plus, he is very interested in learning.  What is most impressive about Byamba is that he is self-taught - absolutely amazing.   All in all, I am very hopeful.

Last week, we also had an emergency meeting with the regional hospital director about the space they are currently providing to APDC (free of charge).  Just prior to the meeting we were informed that the hospital wants its’ space back, effective immediately.  Fortunately, we were successful in convincing the director to allow us to stay a bit longer. We were given a bit of reprieve; but needless to say, pressure is on regarding a capital campaign for arehabilitation and day care center for our children with special needs. 

Then, last Friday, I learned around 11am that the province governor would like for Easterlina (a VSO volunteer from Kenya) and me to attend a regional conference on women and children, scheduled to begin that evening.  It is not uncommon in Mongolia to hear about “happenings” at the last minute but I was a bit surprised since this was a regional conference with representatives from Russia, China, Korea, and Mongolia.

It was quite the whirlwind for 36 hours.  Here we were excited to be included in a conference with international semi-heavy hitters and they were excited to be around an American and Kenyan (particularly Easterlina as an African).  “Photo ops” and press interviews were a common affair.

Saturday, during the day, several speeches were given by country leaders and comments were taken from those in attendance.    Issues facing women and children seemed universal –issues of unequal power, sex trafficking, violence, and child labor were common themes.  The evening was filled with traditional Mongolian performances (see video below) as well as singing and dancing competitions among the attendees - Mongolians love competition and based on how much fun everyone else was having I think I can safely say so do the other Asian countries.  During one of the dance competitions, Easterlina, a “bootilicious African woman,” (as she described herself on Facebook) was partnered with a small-framed somewhat timid older Korean.  Easterlina is a bundle of energy so took control of the situation.  Her partner quickly recognized her assets and modeled everything she did on the dance floor.  It was absolutely hysterical.  Needless to say, they took first prize!   It was a great group of people (predominantly women) with a lot of sense of humor . . . particularly, the women from Siberia . . . they were crazy fun!  

My next update will be about Nadaam, Mongolia’s 3-day independence celebration and massive exodus of workers for month long family holidays.

Respite in the Hills of Central Mongolia

On June 4th, I departed for Ulaanbaatar (UB) and the VSO summer conference, but only after a very busy week.  Wednesday was Children's Day which was a day filled with games, activities and music.  Each of our children received a gift of candy, chips and a small toy.  At one point, several groups of 25 balloons were released into the air - but only after the children whispered their wishes into the balloons.

The night before I departed for UB, the APDC's board of directors met.  During the meeting, I presented my final report and then introduced the concept of board-level working committees.  After much discussion and excitement, every member assigned up for two of the five newly formed committees.  In addition, they agreed to identify at least two additional people from the community to serve on the committees (using a "skills-based matrix" of course).  Needless to say, my work is going to be cut out for me when I return.  I will have to stay at least one step ahead of each of the committees plus will need to have materials prepared far enough in advance so that Bavaasan can translate everything into Mongolian. 

The trip to UB sas not without incident.  Thus far, I have yet to travel between Choibalsan (Choi) and Ulaanbaatar (UB) without some type of challenge.  This time we had two flat tires.  As a result, we were held up for awhile in a small village while the tires were being fixed.  Inspite of the challenges, yet another memory was created.  The car I was riding in could accomodate three passengers in the back . . . that is unless one of them is a traditional wrestler weighing in somewhere between 250 and 275 pounds.  Nice kid....just big!  Whenever he fell asleep the other woman and I would literally end up on top of each other because he would take up the entire back seat LOL.  What was really a hoot was when he and I were wrestling while waiting for the tires to be fixed.  As any mother would do, I quickly used tickling tactics to control the situation.

The day after arriving in UB, 18 volunteers and 9 staff departed for the "Mongolian Secret History Ger Camp and Resort." 

The camp is about three hours northwest of UB.  It was exactly what ia needed - trees, hills, an early morning mist, grass, flowers, horses, sheep, etc. . . . all the things I do not have in Choi.  Loved it!!!

Every evening the group would sit outside the gers (four guests to a ger) and sing contemporary and Mongolian songs on the grassy hills.  It was three glorious days!!!!

When we returned to UB the temperature went up dramatically.  Most of the time I was there it was well into the 30s C (upper 80s F) and would rain for a short while each afternoon.  I stayed on in UB for a few days in order to meet with potential funders and stakeholders.  Everyday, I walked between 3-6 miles on average - trust me,  I have blisters on top of blisters due to the torn-up roads and walkways.  While I was there, I presented a report to VSO and APDC head offices.  I visited the Rainbow Center (a center for children with disabilities); UB library to discuss their "DAISY' program for the visually-impaired; the Downs Syndrome Association; Zorig, MERCY CORPS, ADRA, SOROS and Canadian Foundations; and met with not one, but two, Parliament members - one of the meetings was actually in the Parliament building (which, I understand, is quite unheard of - smile).

All in all, even though many of the international foundations do not support organizations in the Dornod province (where I work), the meetings were still productive.  Many of the foundations agreed to share training materials, data, and resources (including gifts in kind for our children).  A couple of them may even be able to provide financial support - if not this year, then in 2012.

Ultimately, I ended up staying an extra day to have finger prints taken at the Immigration's office in UB.  Had I not taken the time to do so, I might have been fined more than 1 million tugriks when I returned to Choi (which is equal to approximately $850USD).  Mining activities have increased significantly in recent years; as a result, Mongolia has been experiencing more and more issues with illegal immigrants.  Hence the reason for stricter regulations.  Besides, as you all know, I can be pretty scary sometimes so it was critical that I get the finger printing out of the way.

June 17th, I returned to Choi.  And, I am pleased to share that my trip back was uneventful . . . . which is a first!!!! (smile)  We even got back in record time for a microbus (12 1/2 hours).  The lesson learned on this trip was to never again sit in the very back row of the bus.  Five bodies, squeezed into a row of seats that sit higher than everyone elses is not a good thing.  There is no defense from the bumps in the road (oh sorry, the fields) and it was not uncommon to hit your head on the top of the bus.  So, even though it was ONLY 12 1/2 hours, they were l-o-o-o-n-g hours. LOL

Tomorrow, I should get Pity - the cat.  Pictures will be forth coming. 

Blessings and love to all.

   

21 May 2011 “Hello from Mongolia” (e-broadcast)

All - Last time I sent an e-mail broadcast I promised to tell you about the work I am doing in Mongolia.  So, go grab a cup of coffee (I'll wait) because (while important) my work isn't nearly as intriguing as the other things I seem to get involved with while I am here.

Did you get some coffee? Really, you need something with caffeine . . . . I will wait. I promise (smile).

Okay, here goes . . . .

I am a VSO-Mongolia volunteer assigned to the Association of Parents with Disabled Children (APDC) in Choibalsan, Dornod province.  I am here to help APDC with their fund-raising, strategic planning and volunteer development capacity-building.  (I warned you to get some coffee - smile). 

In all seriousness, it is a great organization and I am glad I am here (though secretly I would really like to be living in a Ger in the countryside herding horses . . . or something like that).  But, my management skills are what are needed. 

The APDC is a small non-government organization founded 10 years ago at a grassroots level by parents of children with disabilities.  As recently as 20 years ago, Mongolia did not have policies related to equal rights and services for those with disabilities.  Even today, disabilities are viewed as being the result of a sinful act.  In the countryside, children with disabilities are still hidden out of shame. 

Here, in Choibalsan, there are 10 districts (neighborhoods).  Only four of those districts have kindergartens that accept children with disabilities.  Only one elementary school is able to accept those with visual impairments or Cerebral Palsy and only two public buildings (in all of Choibalsan) have ramps (and they are not to code).  The list goes on and on.  But (a word used quite often here) things are much improved since the establishment of APDC.  Public awareness and attitudes have improved, the children are more socialized and have great access to health, education and social services and the parents have a support network. 

In 2008, VSO sponsored the creation of a Mentor Parents program.  Ten parents from Choibalsan went through a 16-day training program to learn how to teach other parents how to properly care for their children, advocate for their rights, etc. The program has been a tremendous success. 

But, like many grassroots organizations, APDC struggles because they do not have sustainable resources to maintain or expand their programs and services.  The coordinator is forced to works full time for another aservice organization (in addition to running APDC) because our organization cannot pay her.   That is where I come in. 

My job is to teach the coordinator, leadership volunteers and parents how to develop an annual work plan and budget that is sustainable and fundable (is fundable a word . . . hmmmm).  Based on what I have experienced and been told, the word "planning" must not translate into Mongolian.  Everything here happens at the last minute and on a whim.  As a result, the organization is always playing catch-up and never able to get ahead.

During late March and early April I conducted one-on-one interviews with more than 26 parents, mentors, board members and community leaders.  Over 1,400 comments were received (which was not an easy task considering everything had to be done through an interpreter).  During the interviews, I learned what stakeholders believe are the organization's strengths and weaknesses as well as what the focus should be for the immediate and long-term.  Additional comments were received at an All Members meeting held last week where I presented the results of the study. 

What was learned during this process is now being used to set priorities for the branch and will help inform the central office's five-year strategic plan. 

So, there you go.   At the risk of sounding a bit geeky, I am really excited about the possibilities.  I just have to curb my enthusiasm a bit because it is often one step forward and two back around here. . . . Communistic-style leadership is still the norm so the idea of having working committees and delegating is not an easy shift.  But, I am up for the challenge.

  
Now, since you patiently set through the description of what I am doing in Mongolia, I am going to treat you with a few pictures I took while at the Lunar celebration held on May 17th at the Wrestling Palace.  The Yellow Sect Lamas performed chants on stage before a few thousand people . . . which was wonderful.   What was a bit quirky was when contemporary singers would sign love songs, etc in between chants.  Ahhhh, life in Mongolia!!

Next time I will tell you about Pity the cat.   Love and blessings to all.