Walking Mongol Ways: The Cost - Benefits of Indepedence

Hello All –

Based on the number of comments I have received (even now, three weeks since my last blog entry) I feel compelled to clarify a July 10^th entry - the “new guy” in my life is Pity, THE CAT. Sure, it was my intention to lead you along for a bit regarding my love life; and, while I would like to take credit for being a wonderfully creative writer; instead, I think what has happened is that some of you (I won’t name names) have not quite mastered the art of scanning materials (smile). All in all, it has kept me (and many of you) in stitches. Thank you for the smiles!

On to Naadam and a bit of Mongolian history.

Let me start by stating right up front that I am not a history buff. In fact, until recent years I have been pretty ignorant about world affairs. And yet, I cannot help but be touched by how recent history has impacted the lives of the three generations of Mongolians living today.

Mongolia has a long and very rich history which is worth exploring but cannot be covered in a blog so I am going to fast forward to the last 90 years or so; and even then, I will only share snippets in order to give some context to life in Mongolia today. For those of you interested in reading a thought-provoking perspective on Mongolia I would encourage you to read Genghis Khan and the Making of the Modern World by Jack Weatherford (even though he does not call the great ruler by his correct name Chinngis, Weatherford does present him in a more favorable light than other historical writings).

In 1921, ten years after the collapse of the Qing Dynasty, Mongolia claimed independence from China and aligned itself with Russia in hopes to guarantee its freedom from Chinese rule. In 1928, Khoroloogin Choilbalsan (the person for whom the town I live in is named) rose to power and became “an instrument” for the Soviets and socialism in eastern Mongolia. Over the next decade, Choibalsan helped destroy upwards of 70% of all Buddhist temples. He also played a large part in the murder of more than 30,000 monks and shamans. This was particularly significant since over one-third of the male population at that time were monks.

As a nation, Mongolia became heavily dependent on Russia for socio-economic development. Health, education and social welfare was determined and provided by the Russian government. Independent thought and actions were strongly repressed. In many ways, this life-style worked well in the urban areas. For example, Choibalsan, a military border town, flourished and was home to a large population of Russian soldiers and their families.

In July 1991, everything changed.

Mongolia claimed independence from Russia after a brief and peaceful revolution - keep in mind, this is right after the collapse of communism in Eastern Europe in 1990. Russians, living in Mongolia, literally left the country in less than a one week period of time - taking with them only what they could carry. Furnishings, food, and clothing – everything was left behind. Trade, commerce, education, health services, social welfare, everything came to a screeching halt. Mongolian’s living in urban and peri-urban areas did not have the skills or knowledge needed to survive. The country went into a deep depression and is still recovering today.

Last week, while having dinner and looking at old photos with Badamgarav (the 68 year old woman I have become very close to) I had the opportunity to ask what it was like in 1991 when the Russians left. Badamgarav literally stopped and paused for a few moments before she stated, “it was the saddest time in my life. All my dear friends, co-workers, close families left within a few days and I never saw or spoke with them again.” Badamgarav was a nurse at the time and her husband a doctor (I believe) so they were better off than others because they had much needed skill – that was not the case for most of the people.

Bimba, (the interpreter I am working with) was seven years old in 1991. He vividly remembers how food and other basic essentials were extremely scarce; how he and his sisters were hungry all the time. Rations of bread (1-2 loaves per week) were given by the government depending on the number of members in a household. Bimba’s parents grew-up in a socialistic environment so never learned how to provide for their family. Unlike his grandparents, they did not have herding or agricultural skills. The same was true for most others living in peri-urban, urban areas. In Choibalsan, the economy was driven by the demands of the Russian military. When the Russians left infrastructures collapsed.

With all this said, there is still great hope; particularly for those in their 40s who are educated. They were part of the revolution for freedom and independence. They are also today’s entrepreneurs and leaders. In addition, many are finding their way back to their traditional nomadic live-styles. Others are reclaiming their warrior-like view of life and Buddhist / shaman ways. They recognize there are many struggles but greet each day with a song and end most days with a shot of vodka. Even now, this sense of possibilities can be heard outside my window as the locals sing traditional songs while celebrating their 20 years of independence and 80 years as a province of Mongolia.

Yesterday, a new Independence Square was dedicated in the center of town. Naadam officially began today with the honoring of fallen soldiers and a parade to the wrestling arena. Hundreds of Mongolians were dressed in traditional ethnic regalia.

There was much traditional dancing, music, singing, wresting and archery and of course traditional food (in many ways the atmosphere is not unlike Pow Wows back home). Horse races were held further out in the country-side.