21 May 2011 “Hello from Mongolia” (e-broadcast)

All - Last time I sent an e-mail broadcast I promised to tell you about the work I am doing in Mongolia.  So, go grab a cup of coffee (I'll wait) because (while important) my work isn't nearly as intriguing as the other things I seem to get involved with while I am here.

Did you get some coffee? Really, you need something with caffeine . . . . I will wait. I promise (smile).

Okay, here goes . . . .

I am a VSO-Mongolia volunteer assigned to the Association of Parents with Disabled Children (APDC) in Choibalsan, Dornod province.  I am here to help APDC with their fund-raising, strategic planning and volunteer development capacity-building.  (I warned you to get some coffee - smile). 

In all seriousness, it is a great organization and I am glad I am here (though secretly I would really like to be living in a Ger in the countryside herding horses . . . or something like that).  But, my management skills are what are needed. 

The APDC is a small non-government organization founded 10 years ago at a grassroots level by parents of children with disabilities.  As recently as 20 years ago, Mongolia did not have policies related to equal rights and services for those with disabilities.  Even today, disabilities are viewed as being the result of a sinful act.  In the countryside, children with disabilities are still hidden out of shame. 

Here, in Choibalsan, there are 10 districts (neighborhoods).  Only four of those districts have kindergartens that accept children with disabilities.  Only one elementary school is able to accept those with visual impairments or Cerebral Palsy and only two public buildings (in all of Choibalsan) have ramps (and they are not to code).  The list goes on and on.  But (a word used quite often here) things are much improved since the establishment of APDC.  Public awareness and attitudes have improved, the children are more socialized and have great access to health, education and social services and the parents have a support network. 

In 2008, VSO sponsored the creation of a Mentor Parents program.  Ten parents from Choibalsan went through a 16-day training program to learn how to teach other parents how to properly care for their children, advocate for their rights, etc. The program has been a tremendous success. 

But, like many grassroots organizations, APDC struggles because they do not have sustainable resources to maintain or expand their programs and services.  The coordinator is forced to works full time for another aservice organization (in addition to running APDC) because our organization cannot pay her.   That is where I come in. 

My job is to teach the coordinator, leadership volunteers and parents how to develop an annual work plan and budget that is sustainable and fundable (is fundable a word . . . hmmmm).  Based on what I have experienced and been told, the word "planning" must not translate into Mongolian.  Everything here happens at the last minute and on a whim.  As a result, the organization is always playing catch-up and never able to get ahead.

During late March and early April I conducted one-on-one interviews with more than 26 parents, mentors, board members and community leaders.  Over 1,400 comments were received (which was not an easy task considering everything had to be done through an interpreter).  During the interviews, I learned what stakeholders believe are the organization's strengths and weaknesses as well as what the focus should be for the immediate and long-term.  Additional comments were received at an All Members meeting held last week where I presented the results of the study. 

What was learned during this process is now being used to set priorities for the branch and will help inform the central office's five-year strategic plan. 

So, there you go.   At the risk of sounding a bit geeky, I am really excited about the possibilities.  I just have to curb my enthusiasm a bit because it is often one step forward and two back around here. . . . Communistic-style leadership is still the norm so the idea of having working committees and delegating is not an easy shift.  But, I am up for the challenge.

  
Now, since you patiently set through the description of what I am doing in Mongolia, I am going to treat you with a few pictures I took while at the Lunar celebration held on May 17th at the Wrestling Palace.  The Yellow Sect Lamas performed chants on stage before a few thousand people . . . which was wonderful.   What was a bit quirky was when contemporary singers would sign love songs, etc in between chants.  Ahhhh, life in Mongolia!!

Next time I will tell you about Pity the cat.   Love and blessings to all.

30 April 2011 “Sighting in Connecticut” (e-broadcast)

All - Yes, it is true; I was sighted in Connecticut a week ago.

Doris Sharkey (aka Mootie), my former mother-in-law and dear, dear friend passed away April 14th.  It is difficult to put into words how much Mootie meant to me.  We became very close over the twenty four years we knew each other.  During that time she was a loving mother, mentor, and friend. 

During the last several weeks of life, Mootie was in a lot of pain - which just broke my heart - so, I would go to the Buddhist temple here in Choibalsan to pray for her.  I would usually go during lunch - 1pm my time; 1am Moot's time.  While at the temple I would imagine that she could hear my prayers.  I would talk to her as she slept - reminding her of all the good times . . . everything I could remember hearing about over the years  . . .  like how she and Jake, (her husband) would meet for lunch every day in New York.  I had never met Jake; however, the family stories were always so vivid I felt I knew him well.  I reflected on all the times at the shore and how she learned to kayak at the young age of 84 years (she did better than some of the young ones).

When Mootie passed, I was grateful because she was no longer in pain. I was also grateful because CUSO-VSO allowed me to go home for the funeral.  What a blessing.  It took 2 1/2 days to get there (one day to get to Ulaanbaatar and 1 1/2 to get to New York).  I got through customs fairly quickly, rented a car and met a friend off the highway in the Bronx to pick-up a temporary phone (thank you Lisa!). Timing was everything.  I was able to make it to Centerville, CT in time to go to the wake.  Again, what a blessing.  It was so nice to see family and friends at the wake and funeral.  The next couple of days were filled with visiting children, grandchildren and family (even a few friends).

I left NY midday on Friday and arrived back in Choibalsan at 4am on Tuesday morning.  The return trip was challenging at best.  I had a full pat down in New York and lost my phone at the Seoul airport which was a heartbreaker ‘cause it had all my photos, contact information and music (BTW, if anyone has an I-phone 3G they would be willing to sell I know a ready buyer - smile).  The craziest thing was the ride between Ulaanbaatar to Choibalsan; it took over 20 hours.  The microbus got seriously stuck in mud in the middle of the steppes.  It took more than five hours, and another bus, to get unstuck.

When we finally arrived in Choibalsan I didn't have a phone so could not call anyone for a ride.  As a result, I had to walk to my apartment.  Let me tell you, it is dark, dark, dark at that time of night/morning. There are no street lights . . . nothing.  As I was walking to my apartment I heard my name being spoken.  Badamgarav, a 70+ year old woman came out to meet me (I think Mootie sent her - smile).  Together we walked back to where we lived.  She insisted on carrying my backpack (quite a lady).

Anyway, after a night or two of good sleep I feel I am out of the fog and back in the groove of things.  Next time I write I promise to give an update on what I am actually doing here (LOL).  Meanwhile, please send prayers to Mootie's family.  And thank you for letting me share.

Love to all - Deb (aka Mom)

27 March 2011 “Grandmother Rock” (e-broadcast)

All- Last Wednesday, Bavaasan (the interpreter I am working with) and I traveled to UB for a few days.  I had to get my final rabies vaccination, visit the VSO office and the APDC central office; Bavaasan came in to visit with her family and to visit "Grandmother rock." . . . I got to tag along (which is not often the case for a foreigner because it is a very sacred place - Photos were not allowed). 

The grandmother is located about 200kms outside of UB . . . way, way off the beaten path.  We literally drove over hills and through fields with little to resemble a road for at least 2 hours.  The grandmother is about 7 feet tall and 5+ feet wide.  She is draped in a robe and sky blue shawls (they call them ribbons here).  When visiting her, you make an offering of food, cedar (yes, cedar), milk and other things . . . after you speak to her (make a prayer) into her left ear, you are encouraged to take some of the offerings home with you to share with family and loved ones.   If you are meeting the grandmother for the first time, you are supposed to introduce yourself, let her know if you will/will not be returning the next year; acknowledge her; and share with her your prayers.  (It reminded me of going to the tree at Sundance.)    After introducing myself, I thanked the Grandmother for being there for the people.   I told her about all her relatives that have helped the people on Turtle Island during purification ceremonies and how blessed we have been by the stone nation.  I prayed for my family and extended family (which, of course, includes all of you).  It was incredible. 

After visiting with the grandmother I walked the land.  There were other outcroppings of large stones of various shapes and sizes.  People who had walked about before had placed smaller stones on the larger ones (much like what can be seen in Nepal and Tibet).  There was one really large pile of stones (eight feet or so) with prayer flags and blue ribbons draped all over it.  I found myself walking around the pile much in the same way I would walk and prayer when fasting.  As you can imagine, I started crying.  Crying because I am so blessed . ... crying because I felt as though I should go on the hill this year (trying to figure out how I can do that here) . . .  and crying because I miss everyone (even though I am happy here and know this is where I am supposed to be).   As I was walking and prayed two crow-like birds flew straight towards me from the east.  One stopped just shy of reaching me and the other one flew just beyond me and rested on a rock in the west.  Right after that, seven birds took flight.  On the way home I saw my first eagle since I've arrived.  Once again, I am reminded that even though I am literally 12-hours away I am right there with everyone at home. 

Tomorrow I leave for Choibalsan.  Let’s see if I will be three for three when it comes to having a flat tire on the Steppes of Mongolia.  Love to all!

Blessings - Deb (aka Mom)

21 March 2011 “OMG!!! I have Internet” (e-broadcast)

All- OMG!!! I have internet services in my apartment in Choibalsan, Mongolia!!!!  I am soooooo excited!!!!!!! (Can you tell – LOL?)  For those of you who have not heard, I arrived in Choibalsan two weeks ago today.  Choibalsan is approximately 650 km from Ulaanbaatar (UB) the capital of Mongolia. 

Amar, a VSO program director, a driver, a woman (also going to Choibalsan) and I left around 8am on Sunday morning and arrived at our destination 12 hours later (which I am told was really good time).  The drive has given me a whole new perspective on a "Sunday afternoon drive in the country-side."  About two hours into the drive the paved road ended and dirt road (with lots and lots of ruts) began.  What was really a hoot was how (quite frequently) the drive (for no obvious reason) would veer off the dirt road and start driving in the fields.  But, then again, he was not the only one doing it . . . microbuses, trucks, vans, cars - everyone was driving in the fields.  You would have thought we were modern day horses galloping across the open land.  The few times were able to drive on the dirt road and out of the fields it usually didn't last for long BUT if another car was near us and going the same direction you could bet that there would be a race between the drivers.  Did I mention that our average speed was 60+mph and that we had a flat on the way?  Seriously, it doesn't get much better when it comes to having a life experience.

A few hours into the drive, we stopped for lunch at one of two "major" villages between UB and Choibalson (major as in maybe 30 Gers or small buildings along the road).  The lunch was traditional Mongolian dumplings, mutton, carrots and cabbage soup and milk tea.  It was quite good.   The outdoor “facilities” however were lacking.  It made the outhouse at the Sundance grounds in Marty, South Dakota almost desirable.  I now understand what a former volunteer meant in her e-mail when she commented on "piss-cicles" and "Sh@# stacks"  . . . . (I will leave to your own imagination). 

Anyway, the countryside was beautiful!  The further and further away we got from UB the flatter and flatter the land became.  No trees, no grass to speak of (at least at this time of year) but herds of cattle, horses, sheep and even a few wild gazelles. . .  AND of course the blue, blue skies Mongolia is known for.  All and all, the drive was great.  
Since my arrival in Choibalsan, I have been pretty busy getting to know the lay of the land.  Choibalsan is the 4th largest city in Mongolia with 40,000 of the 75,000 living in the province.  It is considered a border town because it's around 60km from China and 200km from Russia.  Earlier this week, Bavaasan (the interpreter working with me) and I went for a walk out-of-town and through the fields for an hour or so until we came upon a group of apartment buildings in what appeared to be the middle of nowhere.  But, looks can be deceiving.  There was a rail station that goes only between that outpost in Choibalsan and Russia. . . .  nowhere else . . . . just a border town in Russia.   Choibalsan, as a border during Russian occupation, was strategic – militarily.

Even in town, it is easy to see how Choibalsan was a military town.  Almost all the apartment buildings were constructed in the early 1900s and all look alike.  I am only now able to get around town without getting lost.  The building I live in is one of more than 20 apartments close together.  Each building has 6 entrances; each entrance rarely has the inside entrance light on with steps to negotiate.  There are typically three apartments at each landing and there are 4-5 floors.  I am on the second floor. 

My apartment is a studio (it is kinda cute . . . as Russian, military apartments go).  I moved the pressed-board wardrobe to one side of the living room to give the illusion that I actually have a bedroom (i.e., a small twin bed and two-section shelf).  I also moved the desk (aka - previously my kitchen table) into the living room so that I could write e-mails (like this one) to the people I love at home.  I have a large window in the kitchen and living room that faces south so I get a lot of sun.  

There is also a large spot light that shines into my window (and everyone else) between midnight and 2am - when they turn the light off.  I have learned how to position the curtains and a towel I’ve placed over the window to minimize the direct light.  Did I mention that there is also a PA system that blares Mongolian music until the wee hours too? 

Two days after arriving in Choibalsan I attended the "International Women's Day" celebration at the wrestling hall.  There were traditional singers, dancers, children performing, etc.  I have been to the Buddhist temple a few times (once because it was the year, month and day of the Rabbit . . . . a very auspicious day); sent in on a "town meeting" with a Parliament member; gone for walks along the river, in the fields and through town; and have met a lot of great people.  I actually experienced culture shock when I had dinner last Saturday evening with a group of Peace Corp workers.  It was the first time in a month and a half since I had seen another American.  There are around 25 volunteers in Choibalsan and probably a total of 150 in the entire country -- most of them are from other countries like Korea and the Philippines.

Well, I think that is enough for now (don't you - LOL).  You are all in my thoughts and prayers.

Blessings - Deb (Mom)

10 March 2011 “A Sunday Afternoon Drive in the Countryside” (e-broadcast)

All - A Sunday afternoon drive in the countryside has taken on a WHOLE new meaning for me. LOL!!!!  After a couple of hours outside of Ulaanbaatar the main road between UB and Choibalsan became a dirt road . . . which in itself was a bit wild since Choibalsan is the 4th largest city in Mongolia and the last major city between Mongolia and China . . . what was really wild was that on many, many occasions, the driver would veer off the dirt road and just start driving through the dirt fields (probably because it was smoother then the rutted and torn up road).

"Field surfing" has also taken on new meaning (inside joke for those familiar with surfing in South Dakota . . . . you know who you are  . . . smile).  Anyway, we traveled across the remaining 550 km+ through fields and along dirt roads at an average speed of 60mph.  It should come as no surprise that we had a flat tire and stopped to help two other drivers stranded along the road.  Things got particularly crazy after it got dark.

 

On Monday, I met Tsermaa, the director of the Association of Parents with Disabled Children (APDC) and Bavaasan, the interpreter I will be working with (a really kind and capable young woman).  The first order of business was to find an apartment.  I had a choice between three different apartments -- two were one-bedroom apartments with more amenities but across town and one was a studio close to work.  I chose the studio.  

All of the apartment buildings here look alike (they were built in in early 1900s as military housing for Russian soldiers and their families) so . . . it has been a bit difficult to find my way around town - and Choibalsan is not that large (50,000 +/-)  I have a small kitchen with a two-burner stovetop, a few dishes and one pan (LOL).

Oh yeah, the landlord brought a washing machine by yesterday that looks like it is ready to die any day now - LOL.  I don't have internet (yet) but should as early as next week . . . right now I am using a workstation at a local internet cafe . . . . which, BTW, I should sign off on for now because others are waiting to use the computer.

I will write again soon (I hope). . . . Love to all – Deb (aka Mom)

5 March 2011 “Not to Worry” (e-broadcast)

All - Tomorrow I begin my travels to Choibalsan in the Dornod province of Mongolia.  I will leave the comfort of the Lotus Guesthouse in Ulaanbaatar, my home away from home for the last three weeks.  Amar, a VSO program director and a "local" from Choibalsan will pick me up around 9am tomorrow morning (10 hours from now).  I am told that, when possible, it is always better to hitch a ride with a private driver (someone from the countryside who happens to be in UB on business and is heading home) as opposed to using the public bus or a Russian shuttle.  Buses are typically over-crowded and the shuttles are very unreliable.  The distance between UB and Choibalsan is around 650 kilometers - the first half of the drive is paved, however, the second half is not.  The drive (depending on weather, conditions of roads and condition of the transport) can take anywhere from 10 top 20 hours.  Yes, I wrote 10-20 hours - LOL.  Part of the charm I suppose.

Once I arrive in Choibalsan, I will meet with the director of the Association of Parents with Disabled Children (APDC), visit the office and checkout where I will be living for the next 12-months.  It is likely that I will not have Internet for a week or more so will not be in touch with anyone for a while. (hence the reason for the subject: Not to Worry). 

For now, I need to get to bed.  BTW, it got above freezing today . . . a true sign of spring to come! 

Love to all - Deb (Mom)

21 February 2011 “Mongolia – End of Week One” (e-broadcast)



All - In some ways, it seems like I have been here much longer than a week and in other ways it feels like I just arrived (not uncommon -eh?).  What is uncommon (at least for me) has been the experiences of living with seven other people in a hostel (sharing one shower, two toilets, a very small kitchen, etc); taking 3+ hours of language classes everyday (along with several more hours of VSO organizational and cultural training); eating Mongolian food, visiting a nomadic herding families Ger; wondering the capitol and navigating my way through this wonderful experience with the other

new volunteers (two crazy Phillippinos, two wacky Dutch and two quite funny Brits). 

Mongolian language classes (as some of you have heard) are quite difficult for everyone but particularly for me.  The other volunteers already know a minimum of two to three other languages – I don’t.  Add to that, I have been trying to learn the language phonically.  As a result, I do not have a clue when it comes to the written word - Ugh!!!  (Send positive energy - LOL).  After language class at the International School we are returned by bus to the center of the city for a late lunch and then head to the VSO office for in-country training.  The VSO office has 10+/- employees and has just fewer than 30 volunteers for the entire country.  A number of volunteers are returning to their home countries between March and August and it is unknown if they will be replaced due to budget constraints.

After class, we walk back to the hostel or out to dinner (depending on the energy level).  The Philippinos and "young ones" tend to go out for a few pops.  (Note:  I was really surprised to learn there are as many as 40 Philippinos volunteering in Mongolia - for VSO and other agencies . . . particularly since our guys are really struggling with the temperatures.)  Anyway, last Wednesday night the group went to a place called the Amsterdam Cafe to watch a documentary on Mongolia.  There were a lot of Expats at the cafe.  In fact, from what I can gather, the expats volunteering and working in the capital get together quite frequently to socialize. 

Friday night, we stayed in, ordered pizza, drank a lot of beer and watch a documentary, Andrew, one of the VSO volunteers, made while he was in a Nepali village as part of a volunteer surgical team.  They performed more than 900 medical and dental surgical procedures in one week (pretty impressive). 

Saturday, our group, plus a few existing volunteers and staff from VSO, took a day trip to "the country side," (west of UB) to visit a nomadic herder family.  It was wonderful to get away from the city and pollution. (Even though UB has fewer than 1.5 million people it has the 5th highest pollution rating in the world.)  While in the country we had a chance to walk about a bit; learn how nomadic families live and . . . just exhale.  It was wonderful!   While walking with a young Mongolia woman, I learned that if you allow an object like a vehicle, person (or in our case an animal bone on the ground) to come between you and the other person, you will have an argument or disagreement. 

While in the Ger, I learned how to make dumplings (mine were not nearly as well formed as the others - LOL) and got to play with a 2-day old lamb. 

The place we visited was the wintering site for the nomadic family.  It consists of two gears (one for the family and one for supplies, small stables, a large outdoor freezer, etc).  One of the many things fascinating about the family’s Ger was that it had solar powered electricity (for the TV and mobile phones of course).  The food and heat was provided by a stove heated with dried dung. 

 

After the calves are born in March and April (the herder has around 150 head of cows, sheep and horses) the family packs up their gears and herd and move to their summer grounds.  

I fear at this point that I may be boring you so I will sign off for now.  Besides I REALLY do need to study.  Tomorrow is a full day of language lessons.  Lots and lots of prayers and well wishes are welcomed. 

Love to all - Deb (aka Mom)

15 February 2011 “Arrived Safe and Sound” (e-broadcast)

All - Arrived in UB around 4:30pm yesterday after a long flight between Ottawa, Toronto, Seoul and Ulaanbaatar (UB) the capital of Mongolia – spent a total of 20 hours in the air and 17 in airports. The good news is the Seoul airport (where I spent more than 12 hours) was quite nice. I was able to sleep in an area designated for rest, had a massage AND a shower – not bad eh? Still, it was quite long.



A VSO staffer and volunteer greeted me at the airport in Ulaanbaatar, took me to the VSO office and then took me to the Lotus Guesthouse (hostel) where I will be staying with seven other “newbies.” (What is particularly nice about this particular hostel is that it supports an orphanage for street kids.) Once a month VSO volunteers from across the country come together in UB for a meeting. Yesterday was that day so I was able to meet a number of the other folks. I believe there are around 25+/- volunteers in total with maybe 2-3 in Choibalsan (where I will be posted).


For now, we will remain in UB for "in-country" training
(which begins on the 14th and ends on the 24th). After that I am off to Choibalsan (12 hours away by vehicle; two by plane). BTW, the time difference between UB and EST is 11 hours. For example, if is 9pm here in UB it is 9am in Connecticut. I think that will change once I go further out into the country side.

Love to all – Deb (aka Mom)

11 February 2011 “My Phone is Disconnected” (e-broadcast)

All - Many of you know that I have accepted a CUSO-VSO volunteer assignment in Choibalson, Mongolia - for others, this may be the first time you are hearing the news.  The assignment is for 13 months and begins after 2 1/2 weeks of "in-country" training in Ulaanbaatar (UB), Mongolia. (I am currently at the airport in Seoul, S. Korea waiting for a connection to UB). 

Since I will be out of the country for over a year I have decided to disconnect my phone service - which means I can no longer be reached by phone or text.  However, I can be reached by e-mail: debra.s.mcdaniel@gmail.com or Facebook (Debra McDaniel, Glastonbury, CT).  In addition, I plan to create a blog once I get settled. 

Blessings to all – Deb