It is hard to imagine that one month ago, this time, I was preparing to embark on a 21-day horse ride from Choibalsan to Ulaanbaatar (665km) as part of an advocacy, public relations and fundraising campaign for the Association of Parents with Disabled Children (APDC). The 4-5 days leading up to the departure on the 19th were riddled with challenges and obstacles. So much so, I was questioning whether or not the ride was going to (should) happen. We did not have a herder to guide our journey; nor did we have horses. The Lama, identified by the local temple, was less than enthusiastic about the ride. VSO, appropriately, was pondering the risk elements of the ride. Plus, the website was not up and running the day prior to departure and some of the materials had not been translated into Mongolian.
Sleep eluded me during those days. An average night’s rest rarely exceeded 3 hours. On the 19th, around 4am, I sent what would be my last e-communication to family and friends until eight days later when we would arrive in Khentii (the halfway point) and I had access to an internet cafe.
The launch. In true Mongolian fashion, “the launch” began and ended late but was well attended and filled with hope. Parents and children with disabilities attended; as did the local media. There were several performances by area children and Lamas from the local temple prayed for us to have a safe and successful journey. We left the aimag center on the 19th around noon and stopped just outside the center to have lunch with APDC board members and to load the gear onto our horses. At this point, we did not have an extra horse for equipment and supplies so everyone was responsible for their own gear.
Travel that first day, lasted less than 22km (due to the late start). We stayed overnight near Bulgan soum at an agricultural farm (part of the Dornod Technical school). As we shared our story and purpose for the ride with the family managing the farm we learned that there may be opportunities for our older children with disabilities to work at the farm and to learn agricultural skills. Even though I was emotionally and physically exhausted from the week leading up to the ride, my heart was filled with joy . . . . I knew we were doing the right thing for the right reasons.
The second day of the ride was a bit more challenging. The herder was on a mission. His mission (unbeknown to me at the time) was to get to Ulaanbaatar as quickly as possible. Forget the fact that we were not scheduled to be there until the 10th of October or that we had planned to ride no more than 40kms a day. As a result, on day two, we rode deep into the night and covered more than 80kms arriving at a ger in Khuloon Buir near midnight. I was exhausted; unable to walk and unable to think. What I needed was a good night’s sleep (which, was not to be; we left the next morning around 8am).
For the next few days, the routine was the same. Rise early. Get on the trail. Eat lunch with a nomadic herder’s family (the fresh yogurt was always a delight). Continue riding until early evening and then stay overnight at the closest ger. Oftentimes, it was difficult to enjoy the ride due to the aggressive pace or because of the personality challenges experienced between team members. Someone was always angry or complaining about another member of the team. A challenge I had not anticipated but learned to ignore over time.
The sixth night of our travels, only two days from Khentii and the halfway point, we stayed with a Shaman (in training). The young woman had completed six of ten years of training. Her training can best described as an apprenticeship. She works year round with a recognized Shaman and learns about natural herbs and ceremonies. She also participates in an annual regional gathering of healers. It was wonderful to visit with such a strong, young woman. Just after a beautiful sunset we helped her and a neighbor coral the sheep, separate the goats and gather the cows.
It was a perfect ending to the day.
The last day before Khentii proved to be interesting in an unexpected way. First, we came upon a sheep, tied up and hidden in the tall grass. No one was in sight. We untied the sheep and the Lama draped the poor thing across his horse to take him to the next ger. Had we left him tied up he would have been dead by morning. Later that same day, a colt suddenly appeared out of nowhere and began following us. No other horses, herders, etc., were anywhere to be found. We left left the colt with the next nomadic family; some 10-15kms away. And, finally, we came upon a bird with a damaged wing. This time I carried the bird inside my dell. When we arrived at our final destination for the day we feed the bird with one of the syringes from our first aid kit. The chance interaction with these beautiful creators and the kindness demonstrated by my team mates reminded me of what truly has value in life. It was at this point, I became better able to accept imperfections. Though, I must admit, I did not master it.
We arrived in Khentii on the 8th day – two days earlier than planned. One of the horses had injured his leg and another had an infection in his mouth. Things were not looking good. We ended up staying in Khentii for two nights. During that time, the horses were able to get some respite; we were able to meet with the APDC coordinator and director of social welfare; and, we were able to take showers for the first time in eight days. Unfortunately, the showers were ice cold. You see, Khentii does not have a power plant; therefore, does not have hot water. We also used the extra day to pick-up a few supplies (hats, gloves, URI and pain medications, etc). By this time, three out of four of us had bouts of internal bleeding – nothing serious as long as we had antibiotics to counter the infections. Our immunity systems were starting to waiver so everyone was also getting daily doses of EmergenC as well as multiple applications of sunscreen and lip balm to address severely chapped skin and split lips.
We departed Khentii on the 28th in a snow blizzard. The cross winds and sleet were brutal; fortunately it only snowed that one day. The next two days were bitterly cold but it was tolerable since it wasn’t snowing or sleeting. There was also a beauty about the steppes that can only be appreciated when there is snow on the ground; a quiet, contemplative type of beauty. These few days were among my favorite.
By the end of the 13th day, everyone was getting a bit “testy.” Bimba (the interpreter) and I were separated from the herder and Lama. We ended up in a less than desirable area. The terrain was not only rocky it was steep. On several occasions we had to dismount the horses and walk them. By the time we caught up with the herder I was not a happy person and it showed. I learned later that the herder actually thought I was going to hit him (of course that was not to be the case). Towards evening we found ourselves in a soum (town) so opted to stay at a hotel (hoping to take showers; unfortunately the one shower in the hotel was not working - ugh!) The herder and Lama used the opportunity to “blow off a little steam” with a bottle (or two) of vodka and beer. Needless to say, they were a bit hung over and grumpy the next day.
In addition, the horses were showing a lot of fatigue. The herder’s horse’s injury had improved but the other horses were beginning to have sores from the saddles and their hooves were getting worn down (at a time with the ground was becoming more and more rocking and difficult). Again, we didn’t know if the horses were going to make it.
October 2nd and 3rd we stayed in Banguur soum. It was just what everyone needed. The local Lamas took us in under the wings. They provided hotel rooms, dinner and interesting conversation. They even found a place outside of town for the horses to graze and rest. This time, the shower iwas hot; however, it was not ideal. The regulator for the toilet was broken. Consequently, when I turned the cold water on (along with the hot water) for the shower the toilet would fill-up. As a result, every minute or so, I would have to step outside the shower to flush the toilet to keep it from overflowing. I am not convinced I got all the shampoo out of my hair during that process (smile).
By this time, it was clear that we were going to arrive at the Chinggis Khan monument just outside Ulaanbaatar ahead of schedule. After all, we were traveling an average of 60+ kms per day. The next two days were no exception. We arrived at the monument on the 5th and waited there until Saturday when others would join us for the final two days of the ride. This was also the moment when members of the team began going their separate ways. The Lama left for UB on the 4th. The interpreter departed on the 8th and the herder headed to Nahlik with three of the horses to see if he could sell them (fortunately he was successful).
As for me, I continued to ride Saturday and Sunday with six other VSO volunteers.
We departed the ger camp at the base of the monument on Saturday morning heading north. We rode for 20+/- kms to a Dutch tourist camp in Terelj national park. The terrain was completely different than anything I had experienced to that point. There were birch and pine forest and an abundance of streams and rivers. It was beautiful. It was also nice to spend time with fellow volunteers….some of whom would be leaving Mongolia at the end of the month.
The last day of the ride was very surreal. It was hard for me to fathom that I was near the end of a 21-day ride. We had done it. The horses had made it. Though, at this point, I was no longer riding my horse. I had switched over to one of the others but he too was struggling. By the time we arrived at our destination in Gachuurt I was walking the horse. The rocks were no longer bearable for him. It broke my heart.
At the end of the ride, I walked the two horses to a grassy field where I horbelled them for the last time. For their sake, more than mine, I was glad that the ride was over and that they would no longer have to suffer. (On a side note, I want to share that the horses were bought by a local, Mongolian owned, tourist company. They will be allowed to fully recuperate until next spring.)
To what end.
Monday, October 10th after a shower and good night sleep, I joined APDC supporters for a rally outside the Parliament building. More than 150 parents, children and supports were there. The board members from Dornod were in tears when they saw me. The media coverage was unheard of for such a small organization. Plus, twenty of us were able to meet with members of Parliament (MPs) to present the issues facing children with disabilities and their families.
Four primary issues were presented (see our website for details: www.mnsilentwarriors.org). In addition, the coordinator and members of the Dornod branch board of directors and I were able to meet privately with each of the three MPs from Dornod to discuss the need for a rehabilitation, education and day care center.
By most standards, the campaign was a success.
Now, that I am back to Choibalsan, I will focus on fund-raising for the center and supporting the province-wide survey to identify children with disabilities; as well as the type and severity of their disability. In addition, until I leave in 4 ½ months, I will continue to work with board on their advocacy work, capacity building and resource development. To donate to the center please go to our website: www.mnsilentwarriors.org or send a check/money order to: Friends of APDC, PO Box 472, Glastonbury, CT 06033-0472
I am truly blessed to have the opportunity to work with such a wonderful organization and dedicated parents and supporters.
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