All- OMG!!! I have internet services in my apartment in Choibalsan, Mongolia!!!! I am soooooo excited!!!!!!! (Can you tell – LOL?) For those of you who have not heard, I arrived in Choibalsan two weeks ago today. Choibalsan is approximately 650 km from Ulaanbaatar (UB) the capital of Mongolia.
Amar, a VSO program director, a driver, a woman (also going to Choibalsan) and I left around 8am on Sunday morning and arrived at our destination 12 hours later (which I am told was really good time). The drive has given me a whole new perspective on a "Sunday afternoon drive in the country-side." About two hours into the drive the paved road ended and dirt road (with lots and lots of ruts) began. What was really a hoot was how (quite frequently) the drive (for no obvious reason) would veer off the dirt road and start driving in the fields. But, then again, he was not the only one doing it . . . microbuses, trucks, vans, cars - everyone was driving in the fields. You would have thought we were modern day horses galloping across the open land. The few times were able to drive on the dirt road and out of the fields it usually didn't last for long BUT if another car was near us and going the same direction you could bet that there would be a race between the drivers. Did I mention that our average speed was 60+mph and that we had a flat on the way? Seriously, it doesn't get much better when it comes to having a life experience.
A few hours into the drive, we stopped for lunch at one of two "major" villages between UB and Choibalson (major as in maybe 30 Gers or small buildings along the road). The lunch was traditional Mongolian dumplings, mutton, carrots and cabbage soup and milk tea. It was quite good. The outdoor “facilities” however were lacking. It made the outhouse at the Sundance grounds in Marty, South Dakota almost desirable. I now understand what a former volunteer meant in her e-mail when she commented on "piss-cicles" and "Sh@# stacks" . . . . (I will leave to your own imagination).
Anyway, the countryside was beautiful! The further and further away we got from UB the flatter and flatter the land became. No trees, no grass to speak of (at least at this time of year) but herds of cattle, horses, sheep and even a few wild gazelles. . . AND of course the blue, blue skies Mongolia is known for. All and all, the drive was great.
Since my arrival in Choibalsan, I have been pretty busy getting to know the lay of the land. Choibalsan is the 4th largest city in Mongolia with 40,000 of the 75,000 living in the province. It is considered a border town because it's around 60km from China and 200km from Russia. Earlier this week, Bavaasan (the interpreter working with me) and I went for a walk out-of-town and through the fields for an hour or so until we came upon a group of apartment buildings in what appeared to be the middle of nowhere. But, looks can be deceiving. There was a rail station that goes only between that outpost in Choibalsan and Russia. . . . nowhere else . . . . just a border town in Russia. Choibalsan, as a border during Russian occupation, was strategic – militarily.
Even in town, it is easy to see how Choibalsan was a military town. Almost all the apartment buildings were constructed in the early 1900s and all look alike. I am only now able to get around town without getting lost. The building I live in is one of more than 20 apartments close together. Each building has 6 entrances; each entrance rarely has the inside entrance light on with steps to negotiate. There are typically three apartments at each landing and there are 4-5 floors. I am on the second floor.
My apartment is a studio (it is kinda cute . . . as Russian, military apartments go). I moved the pressed-board wardrobe to one side of the living room to give the illusion that I actually have a bedroom (i.e., a small twin bed and two-section shelf). I also moved the desk (aka - previously my kitchen table) into the living room so that I could write e-mails (like this one) to the people I love at home. I have a large window in the kitchen and living room that faces south so I get a lot of sun.
There is also a large spot light that shines into my window (and everyone else) between midnight and 2am - when they turn the light off. I have learned how to position the curtains and a towel I’ve placed over the window to minimize the direct light. Did I mention that there is also a PA system that blares Mongolian music until the wee hours too?
Two days after arriving in Choibalsan I attended the "International Women's Day" celebration at the wrestling hall. There were traditional singers, dancers, children performing, etc. I have been to the Buddhist temple a few times (once because it was the year, month and day of the Rabbit . . . . a very auspicious day); sent in on a "town meeting" with a Parliament member; gone for walks along the river, in the fields and through town; and have met a lot of great people. I actually experienced culture shock when I had dinner last Saturday evening with a group of Peace Corp workers. It was the first time in a month and a half since I had seen another American. There are around 25 volunteers in Choibalsan and probably a total of 150 in the entire country -- most of them are from other countries like Korea and the Philippines.
Well, I think that is enough for now (don't you - LOL). You are all in my thoughts and prayers.
Blessings - Deb (Mom)
Amar, a VSO program director, a driver, a woman (also going to Choibalsan) and I left around 8am on Sunday morning and arrived at our destination 12 hours later (which I am told was really good time). The drive has given me a whole new perspective on a "Sunday afternoon drive in the country-side." About two hours into the drive the paved road ended and dirt road (with lots and lots of ruts) began. What was really a hoot was how (quite frequently) the drive (for no obvious reason) would veer off the dirt road and start driving in the fields. But, then again, he was not the only one doing it . . . microbuses, trucks, vans, cars - everyone was driving in the fields. You would have thought we were modern day horses galloping across the open land. The few times were able to drive on the dirt road and out of the fields it usually didn't last for long BUT if another car was near us and going the same direction you could bet that there would be a race between the drivers. Did I mention that our average speed was 60+mph and that we had a flat on the way? Seriously, it doesn't get much better when it comes to having a life experience.
A few hours into the drive, we stopped for lunch at one of two "major" villages between UB and Choibalson (major as in maybe 30 Gers or small buildings along the road). The lunch was traditional Mongolian dumplings, mutton, carrots and cabbage soup and milk tea. It was quite good. The outdoor “facilities” however were lacking. It made the outhouse at the Sundance grounds in Marty, South Dakota almost desirable. I now understand what a former volunteer meant in her e-mail when she commented on "piss-cicles" and "Sh@# stacks" . . . . (I will leave to your own imagination). 
Anyway, the countryside was beautiful! The further and further away we got from UB the flatter and flatter the land became. No trees, no grass to speak of (at least at this time of year) but herds of cattle, horses, sheep and even a few wild gazelles. . . AND of course the blue, blue skies Mongolia is known for. All and all, the drive was great. Since my arrival in Choibalsan, I have been pretty busy getting to know the lay of the land. Choibalsan is the 4th largest city in Mongolia with 40,000 of the 75,000 living in the province. It is considered a border town because it's around 60km from China and 200km from Russia. Earlier this week, Bavaasan (the interpreter working with me) and I went for a walk out-of-town and through the fields for an hour or so until we came upon a group of apartment buildings in what appeared to be the middle of nowhere. But, looks can be deceiving. There was a rail station that goes only between that outpost in Choibalsan and Russia. . . . nowhere else . . . . just a border town in Russia. Choibalsan, as a border during Russian occupation, was strategic – militarily.
Even in town, it is easy to see how Choibalsan was a military town. Almost all the apartment buildings were constructed in the early 1900s and all look alike. I am only now able to get around town without getting lost. The building I live in is one of more than 20 apartments close together. Each building has 6 entrances; each entrance rarely has the inside entrance light on with steps to negotiate. There are typically three apartments at each landing and there are 4-5 floors. I am on the second floor. 
My apartment is a studio (it is kinda cute . . . as Russian, military apartments go). I moved the pressed-board wardrobe to one side of the living room to give the illusion that I actually have a bedroom (i.e., a small twin bed and two-section shelf). I also moved the desk (aka - previously my kitchen table) into the living room so that I could write e-mails (like this one) to the people I love at home. I have a large window in the kitchen and living room that faces south so I get a lot of sun. 
There is also a large spot light that shines into my window (and everyone else) between midnight and 2am - when they turn the light off. I have learned how to position the curtains and a towel I’ve placed over the window to minimize the direct light. Did I mention that there is also a PA system that blares Mongolian music until the wee hours too? 
Two days after arriving in Choibalsan I attended the "International Women's Day" celebration at the wrestling hall. There were traditional singers, dancers, children performing, etc. I have been to the Buddhist temple a few times (once because it was the year, month and day of the Rabbit . . . . a very auspicious day); sent in on a "town meeting" with a Parliament member; gone for walks along the river, in the fields and through town; and have met a lot of great people. I actually experienced culture shock when I had dinner last Saturday evening with a group of Peace Corp workers. It was the first time in a month and a half since I had seen another American. There are around 25 volunteers in Choibalsan and probably a total of 150 in the entire country -- most of them are from other countries like Korea and the Philippines.Well, I think that is enough for now (don't you - LOL). You are all in my thoughts and prayers.
Blessings - Deb (Mom)
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